New Tricks...

Well its been a busy few weeks as usual with photo-shoots, funerals, working in London, training at the wall and still managing to get out. That’s the great thing about the summer months, our amazing long evenings!! So with two big trips lined up for this summer, I've been needing to get my head in the game for some big routes! With that in mind I've been hitting up some classic crags in the Peak District to get some mileage in.

Routes like Billy Whizz (E2 5c) and High plains drifter (E4 6a) at Lawencefield.

Some Stoney action: Dies Irae (E2 5c), Circe (E5 6b), Kink (E5 6B), Oliver (E4 6a) and Millionaire Touch (E4 6b).   

And then for the first time ever this weekend, we visited the incredible chunk of limestone that is High Tor. For some strange reason we had never climbed there but had heard so much about the cliff so it was time to check it out. We were not disappointed! What an amazing cliff. Ed Booth came and joined us and we all managed to climb two stunning lines up the middle of the right hand side. 30 metres of immaculate limestone with a real feel of isolation on a big wall and a great feeling of topping out in the sun! Flaky Wall (E4 6a) and Supersonic (E5 6a) were truly awesome. 

Then finally I managed to clip the chains on an old nemesis route of mine called Caviar (8a+) down at Rubicon which I tried on and off for a few years now. A fairly short and bouldery offering but what it lack in height it makes up for in hard moves! 

Ed has been checking out a few new bouldering areas. He ticked his way through the classics at Forest Rock such as Enchantress 7C+, Heathan Chemistry 7C+ and In Search Of Blame 8A. Next up was Fredda's Buttress in the Peak where he climbed a fantastic 7C+ called 'Infinite Suspense'. We then both headed down to Crunch Buttress and Ed climbed 'Perfecto' (8a). 

Top wall of Flaky

Starting groove of Supersonic

Top crack of Super

Pumped of Circe

Rubicon in the sun.....

Cheedale WAS dry

.....

Al and Sam rippin at Stoney....

Photo shoot for Wild Country.....Stanage!

Awesome day with the team

   

Red Chili Nacho shoe advert....Australia! Nick Fletcher!

Nesscliffe trippin

Just returned home after an awesome few days climbing at the amazing sandstone crag Nesscliffe in Shropshire. This is one of the best crags I've been to in the UK with out a doubt and have been coming back to it for quite a few years now. After contacting a couple of local Shropshire boys who said they'd be around for the weekend and keen to climb, we packed up and headed down to the McCanns house just a short drive away from the cliff.

First day we headed up to the crag meeting Finn, Ed Booth and Angus, so there was a good team psyche ready for some sending. So we all got involved on a couple of routes Berlin Wall and Il y a Stazi. After working out the moves we then had a few attempts on the different routes, with no success yet we headed around the corner to amazing wall climb, put up by Nick Dixon called Une Jeune Fille quatre vingt dix ans. Its a route protected by 4 pegs, a couple of cams and even an ice screw! So a relatively safe one, even though you can never quite trust the in-situ gear at Nesscliffe, with a grade of E8 6C or F8a depending on how much you trust it all. Having heard Ed Booth had already made the 3rd ascent just the day before we were both raring to go. After a quick look on a rope, getting the moves sorted, it then got its 4th and 5th ascent by myself and Angus in good time. First day psyche was on a high! We then headed home.

Back the next day we got straight back on Stazi and berlin wall. Finn was getting super close on the top moves on Berlin while I was struggling with the big move on Stazi. Ed then had a crack on Berlin E7 6C or 8a, nailing it on his first rp and after some key beta exchange from Boothy, I stuck the move on Stazi and fought my way to the top of the route. It was a fight alright and a relief to hit the top! Ed then smoothly dispatched it a few minutes later. What a route! A bouldery start into an almighty lunge for a thin ledge, followed by a ridiculas mantle shelf then a rest and a final sketchy top wall. All protected by two rather tired and rusty looking bolts half way up the wall. The lower peg broke off! So grade wise is anyone's guess. Given either E8 6C or F8a.
We finished off the day with a team send of Notional Trust E5 6A.

Then back for the last day Ed stuck the top hold on the subtle problem Subtilites V9. A short and fairly desperate looking line while I climbed the big arête Marlene Direct E7 6C with some cheeky beta on the top crux moves.
So all in all a fantastic few days at the awesome cliff with a great team psyche!
Only downer was the fact that the little Clio broke down and the RAC had to come and sort it out!
Fun times....
x

 

Une Jeune Fille E8 6C/8a...

 

Il y a Stazi E8 6C/8a....

 

Il y a Stazi E8 6C/8a....

 

Marlene Direct E7 6C.....

 

Split tip after success on Subtilitas 7C/V9....

 

Finn McCann flashing Notional Trust E5 6A

 

Mammut Boi in DA house!!

 

 

 

Ed Hamer climbing Subtilitas 7C/V9, Nesscliffe.......

                                           Sam Hamer climbing Marlene Direct E7 6C

Frankenjura vs Wankenjura

 

 

To cut a long story short.....The frankenjura was wet! Enjoi the photo's

 

Ed onsighting 'King Lui 7c'

Sam Flashing 'King Lui 7c'

 

Ed climbing 'BABH 7b+'

 

Ethan climbing 'Nullkammanix 8a+'

 

Welcome Honies!!

Tanja and Sam ;)

 

Ted P>I>M>P

 

ChimpanED

 

We still managed to climb some cool routes from 6c - 8b!

 Next stop Nesscliffe innit

bye x

Winter keeps giving...

So what a crazy couple of weeks we've had here! We were totally snowed in all of last week, having had a huge dump of snow. The most I've seen up here for sure! So was a bit light on the work and climbing front. 

So apart from all the white stuff, managed a great day out in the Churnet a few weeks ago now. Joining forces with Jon Clark who got some awesome photos on the day.

Ethan and I both managed to send the amazing line Cornelius (super highball V9/E7) and I got mega flustered on the big scary wall of The Inaccessible E5 6a. 

A few days later we were up at Curbar again with a couple more ticks in the bank...

Ulysses or bust E5 6b- A beautiful sharp arête with the crux right at the top!
and Mensa E6 6b- An under-rated line with some quality climbing.

Then finally, last weekend we managed to get out of the village and headed Staffordshire way. We intended to get up to the Roaches firstly but were quickly turned away by some park guys, after apparently peringines were found nesting up at the crag. So plan B was Gib torr which was a great little spot.
Did a couple a great problems The Fin sitter V8 and a cracking highball Gibbering Wreck V8.
We then headed over to a very windy and freezing Ramshaw and I got my way up the scary and totally unique Clippity Clop...E7 6c 
And so thats all for now folks... off to the Jura next week for a bit of a change!
Tschus    

Cornelius vid...

Crazy ice formation at Alton towers hotel!

Crux pull off Cornelius (photo Jon Clark)

Pebble pulling on Inaccessible (photo Jon Clark)

Mensa at Curbar (JC)

Ulysses or bust (JC)

Crux stretch on Ulysses (JC)

Clippity clop, clippity clop, clippity clop 

New slippers from Red Chili!!! Hot or what!

Staffordshire Cowboys video...

Final update from Oz

Well my time here is coming to an end....I have had a BRILLIANT time climbing and cant wait to return to sample The Grampians next........

I dont want to bore you with to much but over the last few day I have managed to ssend a couple of great routes. First up was Pooferator (8b)....This is a fantastic route and was the last of harder climbs left on my ticklist.....it went down on a super strong windy day ;) then I met back up with Nick a few days later and got some great pictures on a climb called Equaliser (8a)......

Here is my list of 8's from the last 25 days of climbing over 2 months.......Climbing in the Blue mountains is just unreal......The rock/views and wildlife are just truely incerdible!! I want to thank everyone who helped with places to stay and showing/giving me belays at some of the best crags in the world!!

Equaliser 8a.

Photo - Nick Fletcher

Tiger Cat 8c (4th ascent)
Mr Tickle 8b+
Mr Line 8b+ (2nd go)
Pooferator 8b
Staring at the sea 8b
Point Break 8b (2nd go)
Dont Believe the hype 8b
Big Wednesday 8b (2nd go)
Aristocat 8b
Some Kind Of Bliss 8b (2nd go)
Bloodline 8b
Brain Haemorrhage 8b (flash)
Mr meaner 8a+ (flash)
Microwave 8a+ (flash)
Tripe 8a+
Tuckered Out 8a+
Bloodshot 8a+ (2nd go)
Tiger Snatch 8a (2nd go)
Green Grass 8a (flash)
August 1914 8a (flash)
Tsunami 8a (2nd go)
Mostly harmless 8a
Dont believe the tripe 8a (2nd go)
Mudeye 8a
Tutu sullied flesh 8a (2nd go)
Super Duper Goo 8a
Equaliser 7c+/8a (2nd go)

Brain Haemorrhage 8b.

Photo - Nick Fletcher

I hope to return soon to meet back up with so many great people and test out some new crags/areas ......I am chillin in Sydney for the last few days before heading back to Uk.....I am only there for 2 weeks and then heading with Ethan,Ted and me bro to the Frankenjura for 1 month in April/May......Bring on the good times ;)
Cheers guys

Ed

Oz part 4 (Diamond Falls)

Well yesterday I went back down to Diamond Falls with Karen. After warming up on a fantastic 23 pitch we headed around to the main wall for the really buissness. I had one quick go on 'Mr Tickle' (8b+) but fell going out for this really small crimp which is around this little bulge, so you cant see it for shiiiiitt!! Great moves on perfect small edges......for me this is a sort of style I dream about!! Then it was Karens turn on 'Mr Meaner' (8a+)....she climbed the first wall very smoothly and then came the crux....she punched through it and clipped the chains ;)....She had been working this route for a while so was totally made up when she climbed it! Totally crushed! Her first of the grade!

Then it was my turn to keep the send train rolling......I didnt climb the lower wall as well as I would have liked but got through it again and found myself resting before the hard slap to the crimp...... I went fully for it and stuck it!! After this it eases off and so I also clipped the chains on Mr Tickle!! Good times ;) I then finished the day by repeating Hairline 2000 and Super Duper Goo in order to get some pictures and a little video footage.....good training!!

 

Super Duper Goo (8a) Diamond Falls

SDG (8a)

Last roof section!!!!

Getting stuck in!!!

 

Well thats all for now.....I only have 3 days left of climbing so will hopefully make them count!!

Pooferator tomoz..........;)

Oz Part 3

Well again its been a pretty busy week....It started off at The Glen where Nick was hoping to get a few more pictures but unfortunatly the weather wasnt so great so we both just decided to climbed instead. I managed to make a send of 'Tutu Sullied Flesh' (8a) and finished the day with a great couple of 7c's.

 Next up was Bardens Lookout, I was keen to try and tick a climb called Bloodline (8b/+) which is an amazing route with plenty of roof climbing. The conditions that day where just excellent. After warming up I managed to send the route first red-point. I was super happy about that!

 After a rest Holger had recommended I go for the flash on its neighbour 'Brain Haemorrhage' (8b) at first I thought that was a little to much but finally decided to go for it and to my surprise I climbed all the way to the top ;) This was my first flash of this grade.....and what a great feeling it was!!!!

'Some Kind Of Bliss' (8b) The Besst!!!

Hiding from the dog!!

 

Represent CAC in da house!!

Photo - Nick Fletcher

 

The next day I met up with Karen who was keen to head to Diamond Falls. She was trying to finished off a route called 'Mr Meaner' (8a+). She came very close that morning but unfortunalty fell high up on the last hard move of the crux.....I was keen to try Mr Line (8b+). This link adds a much harder start into the crux of Hairline 2000 (7c+) After working out the moves low down....I rested and then sent on my 2nd try ;) good moves!!!.....I am heading back to DF tomoz to meet up with Karen. Cant wait to try Mr Tickle (8b+).....Lets see what happens.....5 days to go!!!!