Hamer Brothers Climbing Blog: Nesscliffe trippin

Just returned home after an awesome few days climbing at the amazing sandstone crag Nesscliffe in Shropshire. This is one of the best crags I've been to in the UK with out a doubt and have been coming back to it for quite a few years now. After contacting a couple of local Shropshire boys who said they'd be around for the weekend and keen to climb, we packed up and headed down to the McCanns house just a short drive away from the cliff.

First day we headed up to the crag meeting Finn, Ed Booth and Angus, so there was a good team psyche ready for some sending. So we all got involved on a couple of routes Berlin Wall and Il y a Stazi. After working out the moves we then had a few attempts on the different routes, with no success yet we headed around the corner to amazing wall climb, put up by Nick Dixon called Une Jeune Fille quatre vingt dix ans. Its a route protected by 4 pegs, a couple of cams and even an ice screw! So a relatively safe one, even though you can never quite trust the in-situ gear at Nesscliffe, with a grade of E8 6C or F8a depending on how much you trust it all. Having heard Ed Booth had already made the 3rd ascent just the day before we were both raring to go. After a quick look on a rope, getting the moves sorted, it then got its 4th and 5th ascent by myself and Angus in good time. First day psyche was on a high! We then headed home.

Back the next day we got straight back on Stazi and berlin wall. Finn was getting super close on the top moves on Berlin while I was struggling with the big move on Stazi. Ed then had a crack on Berlin E7 6C or 8a, nailing it on his first rp and after some key beta exchange from Boothy, I stuck the move on Stazi and fought my way to the top of the route. It was a fight alright and a relief to hit the top! Ed then smoothly dispatched it a few minutes later. What a route! A bouldery start into an almighty lunge for a thin ledge, followed by a ridiculas mantle shelf then a rest and a final sketchy top wall. All protected by two rather tired and rusty looking bolts half way up the wall. The lower peg broke off! So grade wise is anyone's guess. Given either E8 6C or F8a.
We finished off the day with a team send of Notional Trust E5 6A.

Then back for the last day Ed stuck the top hold on the subtle problem Subtilites V9. A short and fairly desperate looking line while I climbed the big arête Marlene Direct E7 6C with some cheeky beta on the top crux moves.
So all in all a fantastic few days at the awesome cliff with a great team psyche!
Only downer was the fact that the little Clio broke down and the RAC had to come and sort it out!
Fun times....
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