Tuesday, 31 August 2010

Anstey's Cove

Yo yo
We have just retured from a good trip down at Anstey's Cove, we spent the last 6 days there but unfortunatly we only got 3 out of the 6 days that were good!!. We arrived on tuesday evening and were sooo psyched that we had to go for a climb, we both managed to do the classic 'Empire Of The Sun' (7b) onsight, then we both flashed these 7c+'s which were 'Avenged and Last Revenge' which are both amazing routes!!. Then we had to sit out the next few days because of the weather which totally wet the crag!. On the friday we began ticking again, we both got on La Creme as it was the only route dry which is a trickly little number at 7c+ we both ticked it, then sam did an E5 6a route to the left which was abit gimpish as it should just get a sport route at 6c?!, Later I (ed) did the cool link-up which involved an easier start into tuppence at around 8a+ and got it sencond go yeee ;)! The next day was amazing, Sam ticked 'The Cider Soak' (8a) second try and I did 'the lynch' (7b+) flash and also ticked 'Uzi In My Pocket' (7b+) onsight. On our last day I was psyched for Cider Soak and managed to flash it quit comfortably and then did 'Tuppence (8b) 3rd try' which was a nice end to the trip. Just before I forget We also checked out Torbryan Quarry and did the classic 6c and 7a+/7b 'thread Flinstone!
peace out

Friday, 20 August 2010

Vienna EYS/ Chee Dale and New House!!

Hey There,
Just got back from Vienna EYS competition which was great fun! I managed to get into the final but AGAIN!! fell on this dirty pinch move low down and overall came 10th place out of about 35 competitior's. I was pretty happy with this but still it wasnt good enough ;) haha.

Since I have been back we have been down to the chee dale cornice again were I got on Monumental Armblaster (8a+) and ticked it second go which was nice, and sam is very close on doing R'n'P also (8a+). The weather has been pretty crap atm so have been chilling in the baker's flat quite alot not doing very much. In just under 3 weeks now Its the Lead world cup up at ratho in edinburger so am training like a beast to get the best possible result I can!

Good new's we are moving into our new house in Over Haddon in Septembre which is gunna be mint! So we are looking forward to that!

Cheers Brewster

Sunday, 15 August 2010

Yorkshire dales hit

Just got back from a quick trip up to the dales for the weeknd. Camped over at the Gordale site which was much nicer than staying at the shoddy malham campsite. Weather was pretty terrible for august being very windy, wet and abit midgy!! But did get some great climbing in. Had a couple of sessions at gordale ticking two classic UK routes. One being the stunning Supercool 8a+ and the other extreme rock tick Cave route right hand E6 6b. Was pretty psyched to get them both done and great to do some long routes again! Also went over to Kilnsey to find the place packed for a good reason as its so dry. Was just in time to see Mr Lincoln send Dr Crimp 8b+ which was awesome. Good work bud!! I had a few toss efforts on Grooved arete 8a+ and then got it with out to much fuss. Rest of time was spent ticking some easier lines.
Ed's been out in Austria competing in Viena and will give a run down we he gets back.

Tuesday, 10 August 2010

Home cragging

The Peak district is awesome!! I just love living over here now. There is just such a great variety of rock, routes, grades to go at and its all within a few miles apart.

Over the weeknd we were at WCJ cornice for a change which was great fun. The crag is the dryest i have ever seen it. We were both pyched as ever and got stuck in! Firstly we both got Dillusioned glue machine 8a which was a fun, one move wonder route and then sent Albatrosity 8a+. Ed then went on to crush Yorkshire 8b. This week I have been out tradding and Ed's been to the torr where he did Chimes of freedom 8a+ and today ripped apart Revelations 8b. Good work!! I've been having a great time out ticking off some classics on the grit and lime. Climbs such as Quietus, Old friends, Calvery, Bitter fingers, Wee doris and a number of other stunners.

Off to Yorkshire on thursday for the first time this summer. Hoping for some gordale and kilnsey action.
Ed's off to Vienna for European leading comp.
Over and out

Monday, 2 August 2010

Nesscliffe Psyche

Having returned from Dorset I then headed straight to Shrewsbury to stay at the McCann house hold and climb with the man himself Finn McCann. Had such an awesome week climbing 7 days in a row at Nesscliffe!! The place really is amazing and one of the best trad crags i have been to. The weather wasnt great but still managed to get out. By the end of the week we both had ticked some great, classic routes. The highlight was topping out on our first E8's respectively!!

Tick list from the week-

Marlene E4 6a
Imagination E4 6a
Cones and currents E5 6a
Jump E5 6b
My Snorkel E6 6c
Yucan 2 E7 6b
10 0'clock saturday morning E7 6c
Tombola E7 6c
Gathering sun E7 6c
My Piano E8 6c.

Dorset Filming!

Spent a great few days down in Dorset a couple of weeks ago. We went down to Lulworth a few days before hoping to try out some of the dws but the weather was poor and very windy. Ended up doing some easier sport routes. We then headed over to Dancing ledge to meet up with some friends and a camera crew where we spent the next two days being filmed and taken photos of. We even climbed to a live band who were ther for the event. This is all then going to be used for a Slide show series around the South documenting the Jurassic coast line. It all went very smoothly and we had great fun!!