Tuesday, 15 March 2011

New Discoveries

Again the weathers been awesome, with a lot of crags drying out nicely and the days are getting longer! We were joined at the weekend by Jerseys strongest crimp meister Ted Kingsnorth and were keen to check out some new crags that we hadnt been to. First on the list was Eastwood rocks near Matlock. Ed had quick hit to the crag last year sometime where he had ticked the classic traverse and had given it high praise. So we headed over to check it out.
Its a small but great little crag tucked away in the trees on the side of a hill. After a quick look around we got stuck into the brilliant traverse which goes at around V9. Its got nothing too desperate, but is fairly long and sustained and is a real joy to climb. The crux involves a knee bar and some heal-toe tension. After putting together a quick makeshift knee-pad (ie t-shirt rapped around my leg), I sent the traverse with Ted nailing it soon after. Ed then reversed it making it look slightly harder than the original. Other problems that were ticked were Hats for Clowns V7 and the wrongly graded Ten Inch Zombies V7 (given V5?? I couldnt do it!).

We then changed venue and headed over to Gardoms South which is anouther venue we hadnt yet been to. This is where the highly rated Suavito V8+ lay hidden. This problem is with out dought one of the best blocs I've ever climbed. It is truely awesome! A magical line up a steep prow of decent height with a spicey top move. Everything I look for with a boulder problem. Ted showed us the way with a quick send having already done it in the past. I then got it 2nd go and then Ed smoothly flashed it. What a line! Ted then cooley balanced his way up China in your hands V8+ and The Jackalope V6. A great day out.

The other thing that I forgot to report was that we competed in the CWIFF a couple of weeknds ago down at the Works in Sheffield. Had a wicked day with Ed narrowly missing the Semi-final at 17th and me 34th.

Thursday, 10 March 2011

Row Tor/ Stanton/ Gardoms

Row Tor,
Went to check out Row tor for the first time last week. Its a great little bouldering area on top of this small hill just above Birchover. We both warmed up on the 6B then went staight on to 'The Yoghurt Hypnotist'(V8), I managed to flash it then Sam did it a few goes after, its a great line up the overhung rib!. Next up was 'Blood Falls'(V8) which Sam had previously done, I was keen to try and flash it and did without a problem! Both 3 star grit climbs. Sam then managed to scrape up Bus Stop mantle (V6)! Very tricky!!. I ten went on to climb 'Quine' (V9) and the stand start to Dave Masons new problem 'Pink Lady' at around (V10) after this we went to have a well diserved rest in the Druid Inn pub!.

Stanton Moor,
Again a new area for both of us. We had checked it out in the guide and were keen to find 'Spare rib' and 'Brads Wall'. We started working on Spare rib (V8) and got totally shot down! we were both climbing like such punters, so sacked it off and went to try 'Brads Wall' (V9), after working out the moves I managed to climb it having fallen off the top slopers the go before. Its a little gem just up from spare rib.

Gardoms Edge,
Back on the routes front, Sam fought his way up the super steep Mickey Finn wich is an awesome looking E6 6b with reahy moves between slopey breaks through a big roof. Good gear just bloody pumpy! Pretty full on.

Friday, 4 March 2011

Barriers in Time

Here are some shots of me yesterday, on the classic 80's Nadin testpiece. Super sketchy smears above a spicey run out. Awesome!!