Wednesday, 13 March 2013

Ed Downunder....Part 2

Its been a busy last 2 weeks......I have been out and about, hitting up some seriously good crags. The main 2 crags that I just really wanted to climb on were Boronia and Diamond falls.....I have officially climbed on both now.
After ticking this great 8b called 'Aristocat' down at Elphinstone I decided to have a break from that place and just try and go down to Boronia point and Diamond falls in my last few remainding weeks.
First up was Boronia.....
Day 1 >>>
I had been in contact with a great local climber called Dave Viner also who was keen to hit up Boronia n try and tick his project. We had 3 great days climbing.....My main goal was to tick 'Tripe (8a+) a classic Blue Mountains test piece. After warming up on Onions extension (7c+) I decided to go for 'Dont Believe the trip' (8a)....I managed to send this 2nd go which was fantastic....I then Tied back in and went for Mudeye (8a).....This is a great link-up, It starts up DBTT and then has a slightly different crux to a pocket! I manged to get it first try which was a nice suprise....Next up was 'Tripe' (8a+). I had one good go from the floor falling going for the jug after the crux on my first attempt but was just outa steem to hold it.....Next go I latched the crimpy jug and climbed to the top....Dave had some very good goes on DBTT falling very high time buddy!! All in all I was Very happy with my sends!! It was a great feeling climbing 3 8's in a day.....
Day 2 >>>
After having a great rest day Canyoning, I was back at Boronia. My goal was to try a route called Big WEdnesday (8b).....The line stands on its own out right from the main wall so was really keen to try it......I decided to go for the Onsight and actually got further than I thought I would, falling for the good crimp at the end of the crux.....shit!!! I retsed abit and then Sent on my next try.....What a great gymnastic route! I finished the day by sending 'Green eggs and ham' (7c+), Vertins Affair (7c), Anyerism (7c)....good day .
Day 3 >>>
It was a weekend and it was BUSY!!! After feeling pretty tired warming up.....I qucikly put the clips on 'Dont Believe the hype' (8b), This line traverses pretty much over 3 routes which proved to be quite difficult as there were many people on those exact ones haha..... It climbs the crux of vetrins affair (7c) and then traverses right into the crux of Mudeye (8a) and finishes up DBTT (8a) at its crux......after a couple goes it was in the bag. Thank god! Its a great link with some sick moves.

Staring at the sea (8b) Centennial Glen
3 Sisters ;)

View from Diamond Falls


View from Boronia Point!!
Next crag was Diamond Falls >>>
Day 1
I was really greatful of climbing there with Dave as he knew where plenty of the classics went.....I started by doing 'Super Weak' (7b+) which felt REALLY hard for the grade....Spicy times! Next on the list was Mr Magoo (7c)....This is a great line. I onsighted this and then sent Super duper goo (8a) which is its neighbour first try......I then walked around to check out 'Some Kind Of Bliss' (8b), This is a route that I have wanted to try for ages....Luckly there were qucik draws in the route so I jumped on and went for a onsight go....I gave it my best shot but fell half way through the crux section...bummer!! I worked out the top section and came down! I rested for abit and then gave it another go....I punched through the first crux and found myself resting before the final tricky section....I climbed through n touched the chains....Psyched outa my mind I decided to take a massive lob off the top......good day! Thanks to dave for all the belays

Microwave (8a+) Centennial Glen.
Day 2 >>>
Today I went down with a strong climber called Logan Barber. We both got warm up as best as we could by bouldering around at the foot of the crag....I had already decided to go for the flash on a route called 'Mr Meaner' (8a+).....Logan had previously done this a few days before so had some good beta knowledge. I crimped up and sent. I felt pretty happy!! Logan then put the draws in on 'Super Duper Goo' (8a)....He was feeing pretty wasted from climbing days before and had no skin left so wasnt gunz blazzzing. He came down and rested....I then had a go on 'Tuckered Out' (8a+), You pretty much climb most of Super Duper Goo and the break out right into a steep 4m roof. I went for it and found myself resting below the final roof.....Logan shouted up the beta and I looked up to see if i could make sense of it and of course it was perfect...I climbed through with a few shouts and topped. Amazing climbing!!! To finish the session I managed to make an onsight of a bloody fantastic route called 'Hairline 2000' (7c+).....this for me is one of the best routes of this grade I have ever done.....The position is just unreal!! It was a great 2nd day donw at Diamond falls. Cant wait for more.......
'Dont Believe the tripe' (8a) Boronia Point
I would also just like to say a MASSIVE big up to Nick Fletcher, who has just recently been taking some amazing photographs of myself climbing on some great routes.
To see more of his work visit -
Will be meeting up again this evening to shoot some more tomoz.......cant wait.......

Big Wednesday (8b) Boronia Point
Thats all for now.....
Hope you are all out crushing!
Ed Hamer

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