Wednesday, 29 February 2012

Bouldering shizz

Ed Update:-
Over the past month and a half since we returned from Turkey we have been trying to get out as much as possible on zee Gritstone. The weather has been far from helpful but there have been a few decent days between the 10 bad ones!

I have slowly been ticking my way through some brilliant problems that the grit has to offer. First up was a great session up at Row Tor were I managed to make the 3rd Ascent of Dave Mason’s ‘Pink Lady’ (8A). It’s a must do problem with some very hard tension moves on some pretty small undercut’s. As there was still enough light I went down to finish the day by ticking ‘Domes Sit Start’ (7C) which has now turned out to be my favourite problem on the grit. A great day with some video footage to come!!
Next was the Roaches, I had been meaning to go and try Tetris for ages and finally decided to go and check it out. We arrived, the boulder was completely dry and I managed to make a quick ascent of Tetris (7C) followed by a surprised flash on Columns (7C+), Great Day.
After those two amazing session’s on the grit, the weather crapped out again BUT this didn’t hold us back as I decided to go and meet up with Ted and Ethan and hit Stoney, the place of all dreams. Surprisingly the conditions were incredible and around 30 problems went down between us that day. Some of these include Arm bandit (7C), Denses White Ladder (7C), Pete’s Power Pull (7C+), Nasty Traverse (7C+), Jerry’s Problem (7C+) and an un-named 7B+.

After talking with Ethan and Bails we all decided to go and check out Turningstone edge near Eastwood Rocks but on the other side of the valley. Our aim was to try and climb ‘River Of Life’ (8A). As we arrived the conditions were awful. The rock was all wet and the psyche was low. We decided to try and dry the holds and see if we could dig out some of the moves. After around 30 minutes of drying we realised that there was potential for climbing on it. We all gradually worked out the beta and finally I managed to make a send of it. Ethan and Bails were very close to sticking the crux and will deffo get it next time! Good effort Lad’s!!!

Photos taken by Adam Bails

Gasper’s Week;
Just Last week my good friend Gasper Pintar from Slovenia visited the UK for 1 week. We had already decided to take him up to the Plantation on the Tuesday. He started off by ticking ‘The Green Traverse’ (7A) and then Dope on a Slope (7A+). He and I also had a play on Deliverance (7B+) which shot us both down but was fun to try. He also got a send of the classic Not to Be Taken Away. We all then finished off the day by trying ‘Brad Pit’ (7C+). I had about 400 goes with loads of different heels from different makes of shoe which didn’t work. Gasper then kindly leant me his La Sportiva shoes which stick on like a babe in the wood. I FINALLY sent the problem all thanks to Gasper’s shoe. Thanks mate, you legend!!!!!
After a hard and long day up at Stanage we decided to take a rest day by having a really hard board session. Fantastic preparation for Friday’s venture.

Last but not least, we all headed down to the Churnet to check out the amazing looking Ina's Rock. This is a truely awesome piece of weathered sandstone hidden away in the woods, with two classic highball/solo's side by side. With a big team and even bigger loads of crash pads I've ever seen, we were ready for action! First line to go down was Thumberlina (highball V6 or E6), this is a brilliant line up a smooth wall with a wierd pockety start involving a big heal hook. Then some positive crimpers and a final scary lunge right at the top! This got 5 ascents in good time, including Gaspers first E graded route! Next up we moved all the pads over to the left and got stuck into the harder Cornelious (V9 or E7). Anyway Dave showed the way with a stylish ascent followed by myself and then Bails! What a great day!!

Dave sending Cornelious

Pads galore!

Me on the crux stretch!

Oh yeh and here are a couple of cool vid's that Ethan made a few weeks ago.

1. Churnet Bouldering

2. Beast of Bauston

I nicked them off his blog! Cheers mate!

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