Tuesday, 10 August 2010

Home cragging



The Peak district is awesome!! I just love living over here now. There is just such a great variety of rock, routes, grades to go at and its all within a few miles apart.

Over the weeknd we were at WCJ cornice for a change which was great fun. The crag is the dryest i have ever seen it. We were both pyched as ever and got stuck in! Firstly we both got Dillusioned glue machine 8a which was a fun, one move wonder route and then sent Albatrosity 8a+. Ed then went on to crush Yorkshire 8b. This week I have been out tradding and Ed's been to the torr where he did Chimes of freedom 8a+ and today ripped apart Revelations 8b. Good work!! I've been having a great time out ticking off some classics on the grit and lime. Climbs such as Quietus, Old friends, Calvery, Bitter fingers, Wee doris and a number of other stunners.

Off to Yorkshire on thursday for the first time this summer. Hoping for some gordale and kilnsey action.
Ed's off to Vienna for European leading comp.
Over and out

Monday, 2 August 2010

Nesscliffe Psyche




Having returned from Dorset I then headed straight to Shrewsbury to stay at the McCann house hold and climb with the man himself Finn McCann. Had such an awesome week climbing 7 days in a row at Nesscliffe!! The place really is amazing and one of the best trad crags i have been to. The weather wasnt great but still managed to get out. By the end of the week we both had ticked some great, classic routes. The highlight was topping out on our first E8's respectively!!

Tick list from the week-

Marlene E4 6a
Imagination E4 6a
Cones and currents E5 6a
Jump E5 6b
My Snorkel E6 6c
Yucan 2 E7 6b
10 0'clock saturday morning E7 6c
Tombola E7 6c
Gathering sun E7 6c
My Piano E8 6c.


Dorset Filming!











Spent a great few days down in Dorset a couple of weeks ago. We went down to Lulworth a few days before hoping to try out some of the dws but the weather was poor and very windy. Ended up doing some easier sport routes. We then headed over to Dancing ledge to meet up with some friends and a camera crew where we spent the next two days being filmed and taken photos of. We even climbed to a live band who were ther for the event. This is all then going to be used for a Slide show series around the South documenting the Jurassic coast line. It all went very smoothly and we had great fun!!

Friday, 30 July 2010






Hi There Gezza's,
Just got back from a team training meet in Scotland up at Ratho wall, where the french team trained with us for 5 days!! Which was inspiring!!!. The main goal was to compete in the Open Youth Competition and then hopefully get selected for the World Cup Lead in september. After both qual routes which went well, I set up to beast the final route but had an epic on it!, I clipped wrong draw's half way up which ment I had to climb back down and then un-clip them hehehe fun times but after about 4 minutes my clips were right and then only had enough left in the tank to do 5ish more moves which was gay!! but overall I finished 3rd place behind some french beasts but managed to beat one of them which was cool shit!!!.






On final route ;) I am training hard atm for the next EYS in Vienna in 13 days!!! and also for the World's in about 4/5 weeks time. really phsyced to climb some hard shit!



Tuesday, 13 July 2010

Peaky




Few more ticks from Edwardo being Onslaught 8a at Turkey dip (2nd ascent??), Powerplant 8a and Four door 8a+ at chee dale. I got Nemesis. Weathers been abit turdy last few days and psyched to hit Dorset!!
Thought i would share two shots of a couple of amazing crags we have been too. El Pati in Siurana and the Lab at Margalef. Keep Psyched!!!!
Peace out hommies

Friday, 9 July 2010

Turkey dip!











Been a good few days this week. Checked out a couple of new places nearby. One being turkey dip and the other long tor quarry. Was very impressed with both crags for sure. Dont really understand why people dont go to these places. Anyways highlights were The Boldest at Long tor, which is a brilliant 3 star 7c and Step on it at Turkey dip being a wicked 7c+ crackline. Ed got Jon C new line at around 8a+. Have also continued the seige down at the cornice in cheee dale, ticking Roof warrior 8a and K3 8a+ and Ed did R'n'p and K3. The crag is looking more awesome every time we go down there with more routes being cleaned up by keen locals. Nice one!! Also saw a great ascent of monumental armblaster by Jon! A fantastic effort and looks hard. Off down south again next week to check out Swanage and Lulworth for some sunny bolt clipping and dws. PSYCHED!!!!!
Oh and Ed took a ride in a Ferrari!

Monday, 5 July 2010
















Spent a good few days down at Chee Dale (the cornice) and managed to do my hardest Flash in the Peak which was 'The Roof Warrior (8a) an amazing route on the biggest holds ever!!!!!!. Then finished off the day by ticking 'Esmerelda (7c+) abit further up which is a small fun route. On Friday I ticked Nemesis (8a+) which I almost got second try but fell after the slopey jug after the hard bit but Caff then gave me some good beta and did it 3rd go, which was great!!.





Peace Out





Ed