Friday, 6 May 2011

Margalef Magic

We have just returned home after an amazing 11 days in the pocket paradise that is Margalef in Northern Spain. Along with Rodellar, this is the best place we have climbed at. It really is that good (as long as you like pockets!). It is that awesome that we want to make a pilgrimage back out there every year from now on!
The climbing conditions were pretty much perfect, being cool in the shade and bright and sunny when you needed it with only the odd shower and one very heavy down pour, luckily it dries mega fast!
So anayway, we were staying at the chilled out Refugio in the village of Margalef run by Jordi and Miguel. From there we then visited all the best crags and tried tick off some of the incredible routes out there.

Here are the amazing crags we visited and the awesome routes ticked:
-Cova Soleida
Ment en Blanc 8a (Me 1st Rp, Ed flashed it)
Dr Feelgood 8a (Ed onsight, me 1st redpoint after falling from top!)
Esau Diresta 8a+ (Ed 1st Rp)
Anarkoreta 8a+ (Ed Rp)
Un-named groove 8a+ (Me Rp ard!)

-Espadelles, The Ceuse of Margalef!
Telemaster 8a (Ed onsight, me redpoint)
Transilvania 8a (Me 1st redpoint, Ed flash)
Brageutasso 8a+ (Ed 1st Rp)
Batuka 8b (Ed 1st Rp)
7c and 7c+ onsight from Ed

-El Laboratori aka The Lab!
Dawin Dixit 8b+ (Ed Rp)
Photo-shot 8b (Me Rp)
Zona 30 8b (Ed Rp)
Sarau Nocturn 8a (Me Rp)
7c and 7c+ onsight from Me

Sativa Patatica 8a (Flashed me and Ed!)
2 7c's onsight

Flash Over 8b+ (Ed Rp)
Nina Mala 8b (Ed Rp)
Cubata+chupito 3euros 8b (Ed Rp)
Sargantana Killer 8a+ (Ed onsight!)
El Fustigador 8a+ (Me 1st Rp)
Dando brea 8a (Ed and I 1st Rp)
Aeroplastica 8a (Me Rp)
7c+ (Me Rp)
2 7c's, 3 7b+ (Me onsight)

It really was an amazing climbing trip. We even brushed sides with the likes of Sharma, Andrada, Camargo and a German 16 yr old who had just done his 1st 9a!

I've decided that with all these blog postings, that it's alot more interesting to have loads of inspiring photographs for people to get psyched by and abit of writing, than write alot of boring shit about every route and every move!
Its the Photographs that get people psyched to get out there!!


  1. That's an impressive tick list for 11 days! Good work. Great photos as well. Where next?

  2. Hey cheers man, was an amazing trip!! Cant wait to go back again. Next... well we have nearly got a van sorted and then we are driving down to Ceuse for July and then Gorges du loup for August. So Psyched for it!

  3. Feel free to call in on your way from Ceuse to Gorges de Loup. I might even head down that way in August and meet you for a few days.