Hamer Brothers Climbing Blog: June 2012

I have just returned from a great trip to Spain. I spent a week in Margalef and then went over to Siurana for a couple of days to end the trip off. I had already been to both of the crags some years ago so had some specific routes I wanted to try. I wanted to crack a new grade category and was successful in doing so with a send of L’espiadimonis 8c/+. Another route that stood out amongst the others was a route called Doble Lluna, originally graded 8b/+ but I was informed afterwards that a hold had broken off, bumping it up to top end 8b+ possibly 8c? We had 10 days of amazing weather, sometimes it was a little too hot but this meant climbing in the mornings and evenings. After spending 6 days in Margalef on pockets, my skin was thinning and I needed to pinch and crimp a few holds for a change. Hence my move to Siurana.

Anyway before I get into too much detail I had a fun trip and can’t wait to return next year. My ticklist in the 8 days included

Siurana -

L’escamarla 7c+ (os)

Peixa 7c+ (os)

Gigololo 8a+ (2^nd go)

Cop de Cigala 8a+ (2^nd go)

Migranya Profunda 8b+ (2^nd go)

Margalef –

El Allento Del Dragon 8a (2^nd go)

Aeroplastica Extension 8a (os)

Vertigen 8a (2^nd go)

El fustigador 8a+

Absolut 8a+

Deverse Cordes 8a+ (os)

El Mananeo 8b (2^nd go)

Doble Lluna 8b+

L’espiadimonis 8c

After some quality escalade it was cool to finish with a glass of Cartoixa at the Scala Dei Priory. On my return to UK I had a great time watching the Queen’s jubilee down in London!

I have been back for 3 weeks now and have managed to send a couple of good route, first up was The Spider (8a) down in Chee Dale. This is one of the best route in the UK. Next up was Beeston Tor, Ethan and myself did Honorary Buoux 7c, its a great route but everything else at that crag was EPIC! might leave that place for a good 20 years now!

Gorges Du Loup soon! Rain now!