Went over to Thor's cave yesterday for 2nd time hoping the bird nest had fallen out of the final pocket of the amazing Thormens moth 8a. Luckily it had and I got staight on it. It was abit of a fight as i had no warm up and hadnt climbed in a week but did get the route done first redpoint. I think basically this is the best 8a in the peak, its awesome!! The holds are all huge pockets traversing across an amazing roof with big, pumpy moves linking them. The route is bone dry and well bolted. So... people get on it. You also get to top out over the lip of the cave once you have clipped the chain and celerbrate by jumping off!!! Back in the Peak now for abit. Chee dale is calling again.
Good to see the cave getting at least one visit in these gloriously dry conditions.
ReplyDeleteAny plan to go back for stuff further back in the cave? The two 7c+s are mint, to quote Mr Beastmaker "spear of odin is as good as thormens for sure", he only tried it in the wet and the other route (Escape to Valhalla) is even better.
I always say this to folk and I'm totally bias cos I put them up, but I really think they are a couple of the best sport routes I've climbed anywhere!
There's a topo on my blog if you need it.
Hey up! Yeh well keen for the place. What a great crag hidden away from all the crouds. Defo want to head back and check out some of the new stuff put up. Anything similar to thormens got to be awesome. Didnt have time to look at anything else but will check out the topo on your blog. Was at long tor quarry today for the first time too, quite impressed! Not the most beautiful position but a great bit of rock. Nice to find new areas to climb at.
ReplyDeleteps Thanks for reading the blog. Nice to see people are having a look at it. We are quite new to it.
Nice one for checking out Long Tor, i was going to recommend it to you. Did you see the topo on UKC? What did you get done there? Ruby Fruit Jungle is a classic, and also Pistol Fingers is ace and has only had 2 ascents!
ReplyDeleteYeh had a great few hours ther yesterday afternoon. Was keen to check out some of these recently developed quarries around the peak. Really enjoyed it!! Found the topo and saved it on the i-phone! Could make out the routes fine. Did a couple of the 6c's on the left then did the boldest. A fantastic route and defo worth 3*. Techy, reachy and quite pumpy! Ruby fruite looked brilliant but wasnt too keen to pull on some real tinies and trash the skin. Psyched to head back for sure! Just been looking at Turkey dip and lorry park. They look ace too. Just printed the topos off. You done evrything here too i quess?? Some good classics to go at?
ReplyDeleteLorry Park is an awesome crag, just not exactly in a beautiful place!! But the climbing is ace. The Squealer is a classic 7c (reachy again!). Also Supercrack is one of the best 7a's in the peak.
ReplyDeleteLot's of unrepeated routes in the Matlock area as well!
Turkey Dip is a very cool little crag in a great location. 'Step On It' and 'Pedal to the Metal' are some of the best routes there.
Have fun!
JC