Hamer Brothers Climbing Blog

Thursday, 28 June 2012

Spain diggin and UK OUT!

I have just returned from a great trip to Spain. I spent a week in Margalef and then went over to Siurana for a couple of days to end the trip off. I had already been to both of the crags some years ago so had some specific routes I wanted to try. I wanted to crack a new grade category and was successful in doing so with a send of L’espiadimonis 8c/+. Another route that stood out amongst the others was a route called Doble Lluna, originally graded 8b/+ but I was informed afterwards that a hold had broken off, bumping it up to top end 8b+ possibly 8c? We had 10 days of amazing weather, sometimes it was a little too hot but this meant climbing in the mornings and evenings. After spending 6 days in Margalef on pockets, my skin was thinning and I needed to pinch and crimp a few holds for a change. Hence my move to Siurana.

Anyway before I get into too much detail I had a fun trip and can’t wait to return next year. My ticklist in the 8 days included

Siurana -

L’escamarla 7c+ (os)

Peixa 7c+ (os)

Gigololo 8a+ (2^nd go)

Cop de Cigala 8a+ (2^nd go)

Migranya Profunda 8b+ (2^nd go)

Margalef –

El Allento Del Dragon 8a (2^nd go)

Aeroplastica Extension 8a (os)

Vertigen 8a (2^nd go)

El fustigador 8a+

Absolut 8a+

Deverse Cordes 8a+ (os)

El Mananeo 8b (2^nd go)

Doble Lluna 8b+

L’espiadimonis 8c

After some quality escalade it was cool to finish with a glass of Cartoixa at the Scala Dei Priory. On my return to UK I had a great time watching the Queen’s jubilee down in London!

I have been back for 3 weeks now and have managed to send a couple of good route, first up was The Spider (8a) down in Chee Dale. This is one of the best route in the UK. Next up was Beeston Tor, Ethan and myself did Honorary Buoux 7c, its a great route but everything else at that crag was EPIC! might leave that place for a good 20 years now!

Gorges Du Loup soon! Rain now!

7a+ in Margalef

Vertigen 8a, Margalef

Vertigen

La Cara Que No Miente 8a+

Migranya Profunda 8b+ (Adrien Berry taking shots)

Chillin at the Siurana refuge with the 3 D's

Homework!

Migranya Profunda 8b+

L8r

Peace to G baby! little true boss

Friday, 18 May 2012

Never, Never Land

A classic route at a rare sunny Ramshaw crag, from last weekend!

Big span move leaving the crack

Commited

A bit camp that

Slopey shizz

Phew...

Sunday, 6 May 2012

Dry rock hunt!

Right, since getting back from Thailand about 3 weeks ago now, the weathers been totally shite and the overall psyche’s been hard to come by and would choose 35 degrees and crazy humidity any day over piss wet British rock, but we’ve tried and have found the odd line to claw up!
So here’s where we’ve been, what we’ve done and all the rest is history… Peace x

• Malham (Very wet + cold!): New Age traveller 8a, L’ob session 7c+ (me!), Herbie 7c+ (onsight-ed), Obsession 7b+ (os-ed), The Last Toad 7b+ (os), Conceptual 7b.
• Orme (Even wetter!): Masterclass 8a (just me, Ed couldnt be arsed to go up there), Loui Armstrong V13 (hefty grade dispatched by the youth!)
• Llandullas cave (too windy!): Manjekeews 7b+, Whirral whip 7c+
• Dinbren (waterfall!): Walking with barrence 7b, I punched Judy first 7b+ (great name!), Flowers are for the dead 7c. Ed didn’t climb, he wanted to go home and weep!
• Stanage (dry and mint..finally!): Brad titt 7c+ (thank the lord!) Archangle E3 5b (classico)
• Lovely Matlock quarry (dryish): The power of the dark side (was E8 but more like cool E6/7 6b, mint line though).
• Harston rocks/Churnet (well good!): We both did One Chromosomes Missing E7 6b and then I sketched my way up Pair O’Genes E7 6c. Two awesome routes in a very esoteric seeting!
Check out the shots of Power of the darkside and a funny little video of the Churnet!

Yeh so that’s it, short and sweet. Don’t know how people can write so much gobbledygook about the art of climbing rocks. Less is more… Cut the crap like……………….. over and out youths

Thursday, 12 April 2012

East Asia!!

I've just returned back home from an amazing 3 weeks in Asia. The first few days were spent in Hong Kong watching Fiji run loops around all other oposition in the Rugby 7's tournement. Then we headed off to Thailand with a couple of mad days in Bangkok before flying off to Krabi and then the climbing paradise that is Tonsai! So instead of writing an essay about the trip thought I would just put loads of pictures up documenting it! Enjoy.....